The dress is actually a very complicated piece.  I am going to recommend this pattern for ADVANCED sewers, only.  There are really two dresses here.  There is a simple under-dress which has a cute buttoned sweetheart neckline and ruffle at the bottom, and then another dress of very lightweight cotton over it, which is fully draped in the bodice and extremely full and gathered at the bottom.  The closure is a hidden side zip with and an attached belt that buttons at the side.

I picked a fabric for the outside dress from ones I bought on my Paris trip (this time last year … still haven’t written about it … It’s on the agenda).  The fabric is labeled as ‘coton soie’ - or ’silk cotton’ - which I believe means ‘cotton lawn’.  It is very, very fine and truly feels like silk.  It is slightly transparent and not too unlike the cotton muslin called for in the design.  The inside dress is simply some purple broadcloth from my vintage stash.  I was lucky to find an exact match of purple in the JoAnn’s button aisle.  Choosing these two fabrics was not an easy task.  I kept pulling fabric from my stash until I settled on something - leaving a huge mess to clean up!

For those of you who may embark on this pattern, here is my translation and notes:

Warning!! I believe the sloper has changed!  The patterns are not as “long waisted” as they used to be!! (gauging from this time last year)

Supplies:

• 2.35 m (2.56 yards) of 1.40 m (55 in) wide of print cotton muslin
• 1.00 m (1.09 yards) of 1.40 m (55 in) wide of solid color cotton

Additional supplies, not mentioned:

• One invisible zip - measure your pattern for accuracy.  I used an 18 in. invisible.
• Three buttons for center front (under dress)
• One button for belt
• Interfacing for the bodice drapes (i didn’t use)

Pattern pieces

1. Bodice front [drape template].  Cut in paper only.
2. Bodice back [drape template].  Cut in paper only.
3. Bodice front drape.  Cut 2 in print cotton.
4. Bodice back drape.  Cut 2 in print cotton.
5. Outer skirt, right side.  Cut 1 in print cotton.
6. Outer skirt, left side.  Cut 1 in print cotton.
7. Outer skirt, back.  Cut 1 on fold in print cotton.
8. Inner bodice front.  Cut 2 in solid cotton.
9. Inner bodice back.  Cut 2 in solid cotton.
10. Placket (inner bodice front).  Cut 2 in solid cotton.
11. Belt.  Cut 2 in solid cotton.
12. Inner skirt, front and back.  Cut 2 on fold in solid cotton.

For ruffles, cut the following:

• Of the print fabric, for the outer skirt ruffle, Cut strips 12 cm wide until you have a total of 4.20 m. altogether.
• Of the print fabric, for the inner skirt ruffle, Cut strips 24 cm. wide until you have a total of 1.40 m. altogether.
• Of the solid fabric, for the straps, cut 2 strips 8 cm. wide by 35 cm. long

Assembly:

1. Apply lightweight interfacing to the plackets, belt, drape facings, and straps.  [I skipped this step]
2. For the drapes, fold the facings under along the lines indicated on the pattern.  Baste.  Iron.  [I did a narrow roll hem because this was not a good idea for my transparent fabric]
3. Overlaying the front drapes onto the templates, form little pleats along the underarm to align the drape to points K-J.  Baste.  Repeat for the back drapes (points X-Z).  Similarly, gather or pleat the lower edge of the drape to mate up with the template. Baste.
4. Sew the right sides together of the outer bodice (completed drapes).
5. Mark the center front [and back] of each piece.  Overlap each the fronts and backs to match the center front and center back points, respectively, at the lower edge.  The front should have the right side over the left, and the back should have the left side over the right. Baste.
6. Sew the sides of each of the interior and exterior skirts, leaving an opening (as marked) for the zipper on the left side.
7. Piece together the ruffle for the outside skirt (the narrow one) into one long strip. Finish both edges with either a serger or a narrow roll hem foot. Gather the strip 1 cm. (3/8″) from one edge to match the outer skirt markers A-B.  A is on the front right.  B is on the front left. Apply with a top-stitch along the gathered seam.
8. Sew the fronts together between markers A-B.
9. Gather the upper edge of the outer skirt to match the upper edge of the inner skirt.  Sew together.
10. Sew the darts in the inner bodice front.  Gather lightly Between markers C-D to meet up with the placket. [you are supposed to finish the upper edges on this after applying the placket, but I did this with a narrow roll hem before].
11. Apply the placket to each side. Place the right placket over the left placket.  Sew in place along the bottom. Form the buttonholes and sew the buttons.
12. Close the center front seam.
13. Sew the right sides together (front and back interior bodice)
14. Finish the upper edge with a narrow roll hem.
15. Piece together the ruffle for the inside skirt (the wide one) to form one continuous loop.  Finish both edges with either a serger or a narrow roll hem foot.  Gather to mate with the lower edge of the interior skirt.  Sew in place.
16. Unite the skirt with the interior bodice along the waistline. Sew. [I included the outer bodice, as well.
17. Finish the armhole edges and outer bodice with bias binding.
18. Sew and turn the straps. Apply to the dress and sew in place through all thicknesses.
19. Apply the zipper.
20. Sew and turn the belt.  Apply the button and buttonhole.  Topstitch to the left side seam, at the waistline.

Finishing details.

My dress was even MORE frothy and cupcake-y than my picture when I was done.  I went over the finished dress with a vertical steamer in an attempt to make it a little less like a quinceanera dress.

I was in San Francisco for one day only - flew in around 9:00 AM and leaving around 7:00 PM. I had a couple of hours to kill while my companion had a meeting with someone on the Lucasfilm campus. I went over to the Starbucks downstairs - it had to be one of the nicest I’ve ever seen. I took a few photos, but could not get a good shot of the ocean without the glare from the windows. You can see Alcatraz island from this Starbucks. (Photos coming shortly)

Unfortunately, this Starbucks did not have wifi, so I had to use my portable Sprint WiFi over GSM USB card. I went online to map out my itinery. I decided to visit a couple of fabric stores that I had not been to before - Discount Fabrics and Fabrix.

Discount Fabrics - 201 11th St, San Francisco, CA‎ - (415) 495-4201

Not unreasonably far from where I was at - I went here first. There are a number of listings for “Discount Fabrics” in San Francisco. I went to this one over on 11th St. I was worried that it may be related to the Discount Fabrics store on Adams Ave in San Diego (they are rude, weird & the selection is poor and dusty).

As it turns out, these two stores could not be more different. The one on 11th St. in San Francisco seems to stock almost entirely apparel fabric that was of good to excellent quality. They have many, many bolts of fine formal fabrics, as well as any color of the rainbow. There were huge racks full of bolts everywhere, with the back wall being the clearance fabrics (and a few silks in bins nearby).

Denim. Jerseys. Lycra. Georgette. Satins. All of it … in one store. I had no problem finding what I was looking for here. And more.

Compared to San Diego, the prices were much less expensive. However, pretty much on par for fabric stores in Los Angeles (excluding the garment district - but the quality here was much higher). The selection could not be better, though. The staff is friendly and informative. Notions were not as complete, but the thread selection was.

Review of Fabrix to come!

In an effort to be as fair as humanly possible with such a rare item, I’m handling the purchasing different from here on out. Here’s the new operation:

1. The very last issue will be put on ebay after the others are gone. That means if you are not the Early Bird - and are a bit of a gambler - this is for you! I will start the bidding at $.99
2. For the rest of you that don’t want to take chances, I have an automated shopping cart/checkout system. Those issues are $10 each.Shipping is as follows
   • free shipping in the USA.
   • North America - not USA - add $6 (this is an expedited rate)
   • Everywhere Else - add $8 (this is also an expedited rate)

   Select the “For Sale” tab above - please remember this is a limited inventory and I will not be able to get more issues.

Good Luck with whichever method suits you. I am truly very sorry if I cannot obtain more of these issues.

SELECT MORE TO SEE THE REST OF THE PHOTOS

So if you’ve been avoiding the site because of the slow loading and broken links, that should be fixed by now.

You will notice that besides being able to retain the original content (no small feat), there have been many upgrades to how the photos and gallerys are handled on this site. Any photos within posts will not load another SLOWWWWWwwww gallery page, instead they will (should) pop-up with lightbox support. It’s faster and much cleaner.

Additionally, any new uploaded photos to the gallery will be in the sidebar, with lightbox support.

All of your old links should still work. If they do not, please let me know ASAP! Use the Contact Me page.

I know it’s not as pretty as it could be … but the asthetics are the least of my worries right now.

My next task to recoup all of my money from IPOWER … now to compose some hate email…

I know it begs the following question sequence,
Q:”Why the Presido?”
A:Because that’s where I landed today (well, technically I landed at Oakland Airport around 9:30 AM) .. but I went to the Presido to drop off my companion at his destination.

Q: “How are you blogging from the Presido?”
A: Well, for one, I’m sitting in a Starbuck’s. But it’s not a WiFi one. Honestly, I can get on the internet anywhere with Sprint service (My phone is NOT on Sprint, no thank you… been there done that) … but Sprint has this nifty little USB stick that you plug in and VIOLA!! Internet …

Q: “Where is the Starbuck’s at the Presido?”
A: At the Lucasfilm LTD campus. 1 Presido Blvd., San Francisco, CA Tell the gateman you’re going to Starbuck’s and he’ll give you a parking pass. This is one of the most beautiful Starbuck’s I’ve been at. I’ll put up some pictures when my gallery is up again. You can see the ocean from here.

So on the list is
Discount Fabrics, San Francisco
Fabrix, San Fransciso
and various other pit stops in the Presido area. Can’t be gone too long. Gotta pick up my charge here later!

Gotta get shopping!!

Updates to follow!!

The final straw was when they “fixed” my problem with my databases. I went to my site got a “500 Internal Server Error” … I picked up my files from that server, plopped them onto this one, and VOILA! it works … and IPOWER was trying to blame me!!

I’m now over at Network Solutions (that 500 Internal Server Error was probably a blessing in disguise), and I’m already noticing a speed difference - it’s faster! Not to mention much, much more stable.

Please bear with the mess, I’m working as fast as I can to retrieve data from the old (doggishly slow) servers over at IPOWER.

Don’t fret for me. I learned from previous mistakes - I have backups.

I picked up extra copies the Patrones December 2007 issue (No 263). This is the “Especial Fiesta” Issue. This particular issue has a section of XXL sizes (Spanish) 50-54-58 and 59 different designs in sizes (Spanish) 40-44-48. This one even has a Christian Dior dress in it!!

You may browse the full-size magazine scans in this .pdf Patrones No. 263 - December 2007

I don’t know what happened to Noviembre 2007 Joven. It’s probably going to arrive sometime next year … No joke, that has happened before… But in all likelihood it will come NEXT MONTH.

Prices include shipping:

USA Destination (Media Rate) ……$10 (USA)
CAN Destination (First Class) ……..$13 (USA)
All Others (International Priority) ..$18 (USA)

Current inventory : SOLD OUT

If you would like to purchase one, use the Contact Me page.

I picked up extra copies the Patrones October 2007 issue. This is one of the extra packed issues with nearly 100 designs in Spanish sizes 40-44-48. There is something for everyone!

There will a fully translated, and downloadable instruction set for this one in the next few days. Sorry no pictures, yet. My computer has been down all week (We’re in the process of reorganizing all of our dual boot Mac/Windows machines. We’re going all Mac OS X with Virtual Windows for my engineering stuff. I know some of you think this is really dorky).

Prices include shipping:

USA Destination : $10 (USA)
CAN Destination : $13 (USA)

Current inventory : sold out

If you would like to purchase one, use the Contact Me page.

I was cruising around some Russian sites today (don’t ask - please) and read that there is a distributor in Germany with a decent Patrones Magazine Worldwide subscription rate!� They also sell individual issues!

The site is mode … information.� Clicking the link will take you to the English version of the site.� After that, search for Patrones, and Voila!! THERE YOU GO!!

Soo, uhh, do I have to keep going down to Mexico for everyone?� Have I been redeemed?

I have just finished a massive upload and restructuring of the Downloads section. This was “Phase II” of the security and software upgrades to this site.

You will notice that there are a couple of new sections …

1. The International Craft Magazine Stand
   1. I have scanned the covers, table of contents, and designs within many of my personal magazines. I have an extensive collection, and the Vintage area is not well represented … yet.
   2. There are many collections not represented yet, i.e “Filatura Di Crosa”, “Burda”, “Patrones”, “Mrs. Stylebook”, “Lady Boutique”, etc, etc … They will be there, eventually.
   3. These are not magazines I’m offering for sale, they are simply here to inspire you with design ideas, or to research a particular back issue.
2. Free Vintage Knit & Crochet Patterns
   1. As the title suggests, these are patterns that are no longer under copyright therefore I can provide them to you for free.
   2. On the menu for this area is Minerva and possibly Vogue Knitting book. I need to look into the status of these first. This area is still under construction.

Please note that hotlinking is no longer supported via the new security. Sorry.

So go ahead, download and enjoy.